Eyebrow trends change as quickly as the seasons– from thin and stenciled to full and thick, our brow bones sport a wide variety of fashions. Just as choosing the right makeup products can develop and enhance an entirely new look that’s uniquely you, so can an eyebrow makeover change your face – by reframing it. So how do you lock down your strong brow game? A cosmetologist or esthetician can help you achieve perfect arches, but there are less expensive ways to sculpt your brows from the comfort of your own home.
Before picking up the tweezers, you need to be familiar with your face shape. Knowing this will help you determine the best look for your eyebrows, ensuring that they fit your frame. There are eight primary face shapes: round, long, square, rectangle, triangle, heart, diamond, and oval. If you aren’t sure what face shape you have, take a look in the mirror, brush your hair backward to see your jawline clearly, and focus on the outermost line of your face. Follow along your hairline, down the sides of your face past your temples, to the jaw, and finally the chin. Which shape do you resemble the most?
Once you have your face shape down, you’re ready to start mapping your brows. Mapping your brow shape will indicate where the brow should begin, arch, and end. First, line up a makeup brush or brow pencil alongside the inside of your nose and follow the bridge of your nose all the way up to your eyebrow – this is where the eyebrow should begin. Next, place the pencil alongside your nose and directly over the middle of your eye, pointed toward your brow bone to determine where it should arch. Last, but not least, slide the pencil down to the outer corner of your eye to see where the tail of your brow will end. While you’re getting to know your face shape, lightly mark these sections with a brow pencil to keep track of your exact measurements. Over time, you’ll be able to spot them without measuring.
Now that you have your brow length and arch measurements lightly marked, tweeze the areas that need to be thinned. When tweezing, it’s important to go slowly, concentrating on one hair at a time. Pluck a few strands, then step back and make sure you are not trimming too much.
When you are satisfied with the results, it’s time to select the overall shape of your brow. You’ve already worked out the length and arch placement, so now it’s time to decide the outline, angles, and thickness.
- Round – Round faces generally have the same width and length, and estheticians recommend giving yourself a high arched brow. This will narrow the overall appearance of your face and provide a sharp feature to complement the softness of the jawline.
Tip: After you have shaped your brows, trim extra long hairs to keep them tidy. Simply brush your brows in an upward motion, then cut along the top of the hairline of your brow with a sharp slated pair of scissors. This will keep their shape and make them look clean and well-kept.
- Long – A long face sports a length approximately double that of its width. The perfect brow for this face shape is straight and long with a low-lying arch.
- Oval – The oval face shape is very similar to a long one, so the brow shape is similar as well. A slight arch and longer tail work to balance the proportions of the face.
Tip: Want to get rid of stubborn strays without the fear of over-tweezing? Try using a very fine facial razor. This hair-eradicating process can be scary at first, but as long as you use the right tools, show caution, and start slow, you can tame brows in less time with less pain. While most estheticians recommend razoring brows with dry skin, beginners can try adding a little lotion to prevent redness and razor burn.
- Rectangle – The rectangle frame is also similar to the long face but with a more defined jawline. An unrefined, wilder brow will help soften the overall appearance of the face and balance its strength.
- Square – For those with square faces, the jawline is more angular. Like round faces, the length and width of a square face are roughly equal. To balance this strong jawline, use a soft arch, and leave the brows natural and undefined.
Tip: Use a pair of slanted tweezers to help you easily grasp individual brow hairs.
- Heart – Heart-shaped faces have a wider forehead than jawline, which tapers down to a pointed chin. Thicker brows with a soft and rounded arch are recommended to accentuate the beautiful forehead and complement the point of the chin. You can fill them in with a pencil or powder that is slightly darker than your natural hue for a more lush appearance.
Tip: Got thin, barely-there brows? Do not worry. Work with what you have got (even if it is not a lot!) with a volume-enhancing fiber gel. It has microfibers that stick to your individual brow hairs to create faux fullness that looks natural. - Triangle – Triangle-shaped faces have a wider jaw than the forehead. Thicker and fuller eyebrows with a soft curve complement the strong jawline.
- Diamond – The diamond face has a small forehead, pointed chin, and highly arched cheekbones. To balance out the strong angles, select a brow shape with a minimal definition: keep it simple.
Now that you know how to identify your face space, map your eyebrows, and select the appropriate brow shape, you have the perfect brow for you. Now it’s time to get out there, flex your strong eyebrow game, and be sure to share these tips and tricks.
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